I've been surfing since my senior year of high school. For me, its more just something to do when there isn't snow.

This is usually where I go surfing; Ventura, California. Or I drive a little further north to Carpenteria.

Click here to see the beach anytime: Surf Site

For my psychology class we had to get in contact with a living creative genius. I chose my favorite surfer, Holly Beck...the crazy part was she actually responded. This is what she said.

freezing cold

Surfing in Oxnard

so excited about surfing

A mid-day break in Carpenteria

just floating

This was when I first started surfing. None of us had our own boards so we used to rent foam boards from a tiny surf shop in Carpenteria

 

strong like bull

Wetsuits are so not attractive...

 

Surfer Girl - Home Grown

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