I've been surfing since my senior year of high school. For me, its more just something to do when there isn't snow.
This is usually where I go surfing; Ventura, California. Or I drive a little further north to Carpenteria.
Click here to see the beach anytime: Surf Site
For my psychology class we had to get in contact with a living creative genius. I chose my favorite surfer, Holly Beck...the crazy part was she actually responded. This is what she said.
Surfing in Oxnard
A mid-day break in Carpenteria
This was when I first started surfing. None of us had our own boards so we used to rent foam boards from a tiny surf shop in Carpenteria
Wetsuits are so not attractive...